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For most knitters, it’s currently sweater-knitting weather. But for me, it’s sock-knitting weather. But that’s pretty much anytime. Or all the time. Socks are a blank canvas waiting to be filled with whatever stitch pattern your imagination can produce. And the constructions methods are endless. Socks never bore me.
Construction
Pebble socks were created using a modified costruction method from Cat Bordhi’s book New Pathways for Sock Knitters. Sadly, Cat passed away from cancer in September 2020. I never got to meet her in person, but she helped fuel my love of sock knitting. I hope these socks can be my small tribute to her creative and ingenious spirit that will continue to inspire all knitters for all time.
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Construction of Pebble socks begins at the toe, and includes plenty of fun details like wrapped stitches, a reinforced heel AND heel turn, and a twisted rib guesset that sits off center from the top of the foot. The “pebbles” form a gently curving path from the toe to the top of the leg. Despite the off-center gusset, each sock hugs the foot beatifully and comfortably.
Pattern
The 10-page pattern contains written instructions, and charts for the “pebbles.” It is written for 4 different sizes (foot circumferences of 7, 8, 9 and 10 inches). Video links to techniqes are included. The pattern has been tested, but please contact me (Ravelry link) with any questions or problems. I’m happy to help.
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Yep, I adopted one of those cute Baby Yodas. To earn his keep, I decided he needed to perform an additional function (other than taking up space with his cuteness), namely as a Christmas decoration.
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This Santa Hat fits snugly on Baby Yoda’s head and even has holes in the brim to accomodate his oversized, lime-green alien ears. I figure he appreciates it, he is bald and my house is fairly cold in the winter.
Maybe yours needs one too?
Baby Yoda Santa Hat Pattern
.pdf download at end of post
Materials
Size US13 long circular needles for Magic Loop or double-pointed needles
Using furry yarn, cast on 36 stitches. Join for working in the round.
Rounds 1-2: Knit to end of round.
Round 3: K5, *K1, pass second stitch on right needle over first one. Repeat from * 5 more times, for a total of 6 stitches bound off. K16. *K1, pass second stitch on right needle over first one. Repeat from * 5 more times, for a total of 6 stitches bound off. K3.
Round 4: K4. Using Cable Cast-On, cast on 7 stitches. K1, pass the last cast-on stitch over that K stitch. K15. Using cable Cable Cast-On, cast on 7 stitches. K1, pass the last cast-on stitch over that K stitch. K3. (36 sts)
Round 5: K to end of round.
Cut yarn, leaving a tail to weave in later. Attach red yarn.
Rounds 1-2: Knit to end of round.
Round 3: *K4, K2tog. Repeat from * to end of round. (30 sts)
Rounds 4-5: K to end of round.
Round 6: *K3, K2tog. Repeat from * to end of round. (24 sts)
Rounds 7-8: K to end of round.
Round 9: *K2, K2tog. Repeat from * to end of round. (18 sts)
Rounds 10-11: K to end of round.
Round 12: *K1, K2tog. Repeat from * to end of round. (12 sts)
Round 13: *K2tog. Repeat from * to end of round. (6 sts)
Break yarn and thread through live stitches to close top.
For the pom, using size 13 needles and the furry yarn, I cast on 3 stitches, then joined for knitting in the round. (I kept my long tail inside the pom for stuffing.)
Round 1: *Kfb. Repeat from * to end of round (6 stitches).
Round 2: K around.
Round 3: *K1, Kfb. Repeat from * to end of round. (9 stitches)
Round 4: K to end of round.
Stuff pom if desired. Cut yarn, leaving a tail and thread through live stitches to close pom.
Use tail to sew pom onto top of hat. Weave in ends.
Slide one of BY’s ears into an ear hole, then gently stretch the other hole over his other ear. Remember, the beginning of the knitting rounds are the back of the hat, so if it fits funky, try turning it around.
I’ve got a free knitting pattern for all you Star Wars/Mandalorian fans. Clan of Two is worked from the bottom up and includes a corrugated rib cuff and thumb gusset.
The Mudhorn signet was granted to our hero by the Armorer in the final episode of the first season of The Mandalorian, after she declares Dyn Jarren and Baby Yoda a “clan of two.”
I used US1.5 needles with a gauge of 9 stitches/inch, which made the mittens about 7 inches in circumference. If you need them a bit larger, use size US2 needles with a gauge of 8 stitches/inch.
The pattern has only been tested by me, so feel free to contact me with any questions or errors.
Hey, how goes it, Crafters? As you may know, socks are my all-time favorite item to knit. Well, let me introduce you to my newest snugly feet wraps: Serein Socks.
My usual method of madness for socks follows a cuff-to-toe pathway, with a heel flap and turn. But this time, I decided on the reverse. You know, to change it up a little. But mostly because I thought the stitch pattern would look better turned right-side-up.
Stitch pattern
Speaking of the stitch pattern, check it out.
I modified a stitch pattern that I found on the interwebs. The original was a video where the pattern was worked flat, and I had a to figure out how to convert it to the round. I had a few challenges. First, the video was in Russian. And the knitting itself was different than I’m used to because the style, stitch mount, and other things were different.
And, I really want to learn Russian. Seriously. I love how it sounds.
The pattern is a relatively simple 4-round repeat. The first two rounds consist of only knits and purls. The third round contains a stitch that takes 3 stitches and knits them through the back loop, while adding a Yarn Over and another stitch. Here are the pics:
Knit 3 through the back loop, but leave stitches on needle.Yarn OverKnit first stitch on left needle through the back loop.Three new stitches after slipping original ones off left needle.
Finally, the 4th round includes a simple right cross cable.
Heel Turn and Flap
This is my first toe-up design with a heel flap. If you don’t enjoy picking up stitches, this is the way to go.
How pretty is this heel flap?
Other Stuff
I decided to incorporate a couple of other of my favorite techniques in this pattern.
Each Serein Sock begins with Judy’s Magic Cast-On. You certainly don’t have to begin with this; use whatever method you usually use for your socks. Maybe you prefer a Turkish Cast-On or a Short Row toe.
For the final cuff Bind-Off, I used Jeny’s Surprisingly Stretchy Bind-Off. This method is great for keeping the top of your sock from cutting off circulation to your foot. Again, feel free to use your favorite method.
I truly had a ton of fun designing these. While I think that the cuff-down construction will always be my favorite, this was an unique challenge and of course, increasing my knitting skills is always a bonus. I hope to do more toe-up socks soon.
Please, if you enjoy this pattern, share it or let me know! I haven’t had it tested, so let me know if you find any errors or contact me with any questions or comments.
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Color combination is my knitting jam. I also like interesting stitch patterns. Which is why I was so intrigued with this post from Fringe Association.
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The FA post is several years old, but since I first came across it, I’ve wanted to recreate the pattern. After some trial and error, I came up with something that at least resembles it.
Using the stitch pattern, I created Aeonian Cowl. I thought a cowl would be the perfect project, because have you looked outside lately here in the Seattle area?
Seattle snow, you’re beautiful, but you can stop now.
The Two Stitch Patterns
Important: Before you start knitting, read the section after the second video below.
Aeonian Cowl uses two stitch patterns; a knit section and a purl section that incorporate two strands in two different ways.
Purl Sections
The purl sections form the space between the diamonds. The stitches are made with the Contrasting Color (blue) while the Main Color (white) is “anchored” in each purl stitch. Here’s how it’s done:
At the beginning of each purl section, the Contrasting Color will be in the front of the work. Leave it there.
Bring the Main Color to the front and to the left of the Contrasting Color.
The Main Color will stay in front for the purl section, but will be “caught” in each purl stitch to anchor it down, as follows:
While holding the Main Color out of the way, purl the first stitch.
For the second stitch (and every even stitch in the purl section), when you insert your needle into the stitch purlwise, place the Main Color over the right needle before purling the stitch.
Alternate these two steps. You can see that the Main Color is being trapped by the Contrasting Color purl stitches.
When you get to the end of the purl section, without twisting the yarns, place the Main Color to the back.
The knit sections form the diamond shapes. The knit stitches are done with the Main Color (white) while weaving the Contrasting Color (blue) through. Here is how it’s done:
At the beginning of each knit section, the Contrasting Color will be in the front of the work, and the Main Color will be in the back.
Leave the Contrasting Color in front while knitting the first knit section stitch.
Place the Contrasting Color in the back of the work, then knit the second stitch.
Continue this method of weaving the Contrasting Color back and forth while knitting.
Note that the the Contrasting Color will be in the front for each first and last stitch of each knit section.
Video:
This is extremely important. I mean it, read this before starting.
The weaving of the contrasting color in the knit sections creates almost non-existent horizontal stretch. That’s why it’s extremely important, when switching between knit and purl sections, to spread out your stitches on your right needle as much as you can. Kind of like this:
Seriously. Pull and stretch out those knit stitches while allowing the Contrasting Color strand to stretch between the knit stitches. If you don’t, you’ll get something like the bottom cowl in this picture:
You can see that the diamond shapes are distorted and the ends of the cowl sort of bow inward. I tried blocking it into shape, but of course a strand of yarn can only stretch so far (which is not very, in this case).
You may have a similar issue, but to a lesser extent, in the purl sections, so just believe me, take your time, and stretch out your stitches after completing each section. Especially the knit sections. I really can’t stress this enough. You’ve been warned, LOL.
Aeonian Cowl Pattern
Size and Gauge
Cowl is approximately 28 inches in circumference. Make it longer or shorter by adding or subtracting chart repeats.