I’ve got a free knitting pattern for all you Star Wars/Mandalorian fans. Clan of Two is worked from the bottom up and includes a corrugated rib cuff and thumb gusset.
The Mudhorn signet was granted to our hero by the Armorer in the final episode of the first season of The Mandalorian, after she declares Dyn Jarren and Baby Yoda a “clan of two.”
I used US1.5 needles with a gauge of 9 stitches/inch, which made the mittens about 7 inches in circumference. If you need them a bit larger, use size US2 needles with a gauge of 8 stitches/inch.
The pattern has only been tested by me, so feel free to contact me with any questions or errors.
Hey, how goes it, Crafters? As you may know, socks are my all-time favorite item to knit. Well, let me introduce you to my newest snugly feet wraps: Serein Socks.
My usual method of madness for socks follows a cuff-to-toe pathway, with a heel flap and turn. But this time, I decided on the reverse. You know, to change it up a little. But mostly because I thought the stitch pattern would look better turned right-side-up.
Stitch pattern
Speaking of the stitch pattern, check it out.
I modified a stitch pattern that I found on the interwebs. The original was a video where the pattern was worked flat, and I had a to figure out how to convert it to the round. I had a few challenges. First, the video was in Russian. And the knitting itself was different than I’m used to because the style, stitch mount, and other things were different.
And, I really want to learn Russian. Seriously. I love how it sounds.
The pattern is a relatively simple 4-round repeat. The first two rounds consist of only knits and purls. The third round contains a stitch that takes 3 stitches and knits them through the back loop, while adding a Yarn Over and another stitch. Here are the pics:
Knit 3 through the back loop, but leave stitches on needle.Yarn OverKnit first stitch on left needle through the back loop.Three new stitches after slipping original ones off left needle.
Finally, the 4th round includes a simple right cross cable.
Heel Turn and Flap
This is my first toe-up design with a heel flap. If you don’t enjoy picking up stitches, this is the way to go.
How pretty is this heel flap?
Other Stuff
I decided to incorporate a couple of other of my favorite techniques in this pattern.
Each Serein Sock begins with Judy’s Magic Cast-On. You certainly don’t have to begin with this; use whatever method you usually use for your socks. Maybe you prefer a Turkish Cast-On or a Short Row toe.
For the final cuff Bind-Off, I used Jeny’s Surprisingly Stretchy Bind-Off. This method is great for keeping the top of your sock from cutting off circulation to your foot. Again, feel free to use your favorite method.
I truly had a ton of fun designing these. While I think that the cuff-down construction will always be my favorite, this was an unique challenge and of course, increasing my knitting skills is always a bonus. I hope to do more toe-up socks soon.
Please, if you enjoy this pattern, share it or let me know! I haven’t had it tested, so let me know if you find any errors or contact me with any questions or comments.
If you found your way here from Pinterest or Instagram, welcome to my tiny cupboard under the stairs of the Big Wide Web. If you like, please subscribe to my newsletter and follow me here and here.
Color combination is my knitting jam. I also like interesting stitch patterns. Which is why I was so intrigued with this post from Fringe Association.
Post may contain affiliate links. Please see Affiliate Policy here.
The FA post is several years old, but since I first came across it, I’ve wanted to recreate the pattern. After some trial and error, I came up with something that at least resembles it.
Using the stitch pattern, I created Aeonian Cowl. I thought a cowl would be the perfect project, because have you looked outside lately here in the Seattle area?
Seattle snow, you’re beautiful, but you can stop now.
The Two Stitch Patterns
Important: Before you start knitting, read the section after the second video below.
Aeonian Cowl uses two stitch patterns; a knit section and a purl section that incorporate two strands in two different ways.
Purl Sections
The purl sections form the space between the diamonds. The stitches are made with the Contrasting Color (blue) while the Main Color (white) is “anchored” in each purl stitch. Here’s how it’s done:
At the beginning of each purl section, the Contrasting Color will be in the front of the work. Leave it there.
Bring the Main Color to the front and to the left of the Contrasting Color.
The Main Color will stay in front for the purl section, but will be “caught” in each purl stitch to anchor it down, as follows:
While holding the Main Color out of the way, purl the first stitch.
For the second stitch (and every even stitch in the purl section), when you insert your needle into the stitch purlwise, place the Main Color over the right needle before purling the stitch.
Alternate these two steps. You can see that the Main Color is being trapped by the Contrasting Color purl stitches.
When you get to the end of the purl section, without twisting the yarns, place the Main Color to the back.
The knit sections form the diamond shapes. The knit stitches are done with the Main Color (white) while weaving the Contrasting Color (blue) through. Here is how it’s done:
At the beginning of each knit section, the Contrasting Color will be in the front of the work, and the Main Color will be in the back.
Leave the Contrasting Color in front while knitting the first knit section stitch.
Place the Contrasting Color in the back of the work, then knit the second stitch.
Continue this method of weaving the Contrasting Color back and forth while knitting.
Note that the the Contrasting Color will be in the front for each first and last stitch of each knit section.
Video:
This is extremely important. I mean it, read this before starting.
The weaving of the contrasting color in the knit sections creates almost non-existent horizontal stretch. That’s why it’s extremely important, when switching between knit and purl sections, to spread out your stitches on your right needle as much as you can. Kind of like this:
Seriously. Pull and stretch out those knit stitches while allowing the Contrasting Color strand to stretch between the knit stitches. If you don’t, you’ll get something like the bottom cowl in this picture:
You can see that the diamond shapes are distorted and the ends of the cowl sort of bow inward. I tried blocking it into shape, but of course a strand of yarn can only stretch so far (which is not very, in this case).
You may have a similar issue, but to a lesser extent, in the purl sections, so just believe me, take your time, and stretch out your stitches after completing each section. Especially the knit sections. I really can’t stress this enough. You’ve been warned, LOL.
Aeonian Cowl Pattern
Size and Gauge
Cowl is approximately 28 inches in circumference. Make it longer or shorter by adding or subtracting chart repeats.
Post may contain affiliate links. Please see Affiliate Policy here.
If you found your way here from Pinterest or Instagram, welcome to my tiny cupboard under the stairs of the Big Wide Web. Be sure to subscribe to our newsletter and follow us here and here.
Ah, Autumn, my favorite time of year, I adore you so much. Rain (#pluviophile), crunchy leaves, squashes, sweet potatoes, sweaters, NFL, crunchy leaves, Thanksgiving.
Oh yeah, and loads of knitting. What’s not to love?
(And by the way, it’s not too early to look forward to Christmas too. My local radio station started playing Christmas music this week and I literally burst into JOYFUL TEARS. Please don’t throw things at me.)
After admiring all the chunky hat beauties on Instagram, I decided I needed one. Or maybe two. Or an entire herd. (And it’s more weather-appropriate than last year’s Autumn knit.)
The stitch pattern is an easy 4-round repeat, so your beanie can be made as short or as long as you want. See the end of pattern for instructions.
Sizes US11 and US15 double pointed needles OR 16-inch circular needle OR long circular needles for Magic Loop; or sizes needed to obtain gauge.
Stitch marker
Abbreviations
K – Knit
YO – Yarn Over
Kfb – Knit front and back
Sl 1 – Slip one stitch knit-wise
Psso – Pass Slipped Stitch over
Method
Using smaller needle, cast on 44 (46) sts. Join for working in the round, and place marker for beginning-of-round. Work in 1×1 rib for 4 rounds.
Switch to larger needles.
For small size: K5, *Kfb, K10. Repeat from * to last 6 sts, Kfb, K5. (48 sts)
For Med/Large size: K2, *Kfb, K3, Kfb, K4. Repeat from * to last 8 sts, Kfb, K3, Kfb, K3. (56 sts)
K 1 round even.
4-round Stitch Pattern
Round 1: K1, Sl1, K2, psso. Repeat to end.
Round 2: K1, YO, K2. Repeat to end.
Round 3: Sl1, K2, psso, K1. Repeat to end.
Round 4: K2, YO, K1. Repeat to end.
Work Rounds 1-4 a total of 3(4) times.
Work another Round 1.
Decreases
1: *K1, YO, K3, YO, K2tog. Repeat from * to end.
2: *Sl1, K2, psso, K1, Sl1, K2, psso. Repeat from * to end.
3: *K2tog, YO, K3. Repeat from * to end.
4: *Sl1, K2, psso, K2. Repeat from * to end.
5: *K2, SSK. Repeat from *Â to end
6: K one round even.
7: *SSK, K. Repeat from * to end.
8: SSK. Repeat to end.
Cut yarn and thread it through live stitches, pulling tight to close top of beanie.
Weave in ends and slap on a pom-pom. Because a chunky hat isn’t really finished without one.
I had a lot of fun (and frustration, lol) knitting the poms for these hats. I’ll show you how in my next post.
More Sizes
This pattern is easily adjusted to make any size. Simply cast on an even number of stitches with the smaller needle and work desired number of rounds of 1×1 ribbing. Switch to larger needles and knit around while increasing evenly to a multiple of 8 stitches. Knit an even round, then begin the 4-round stitch pattern, ending with a round 1 or 3.
If ending with a Round 1, use the decreases from above. If ending with a Round 3, use the following set of decreases:
1:Â *K2tog, YO, K3, YO, K1. Repeat from * to end.
2: *Sl1, K2, psso, K1, Sl1, K2, psso. Repeat from * to end.
3: *K3, YO, K2tog. Repeat from * to end.
4: *K2, Sl1, K2, psso. Repeat from * to end.
5: *SSK, K2. Repeat from * to end.
6: K one round even.
7: *K1, SSK. Repeat from * to end.
Cut yarn and thread it through live stitches, pulling tight to close top of beanie. And don’t forget your pom….yeah, you already know that.
Enjoy!
Please feel free to contact me with any questions, comments, or your favorite butternut squash recipe.
Post may contain affiliate links. Please see Affiliate Policy here.
If you found us through Pinterest, be sure to subscribe to our newsletter and follow us on Pinterest.
So, funny story. I had this idea for a shawl stuck in my head. It had been rattling around for a few months, and so, of course, I did the most logical thing and went yarn shopping. I found this beautiful wool from Abundant Earth Fibers, and knew it would be perfect.
I “knew” wrong. Not that the wool was wrong. The wool is beautiful and rustic and sheep-y and everything I love in a yarn. It just wasn’t right for the idea that was stuck in my head. Ah well, I’m not in charge of my creativity. What could I do? I had to let the yarn and the needles do what they want. I could either fight them or go with it.
Because I’m not fan of drama, I decided to go with it.
Pave the Way is the result. The Twisted Purl stitch was entertaining and added an appealing texture.
After the relative complexity of Eira (which is still on sale for a couple of more days!), this shawl is a quick and satisfying project.
Once you complete the garter tab beginning and setup row, the pattern consists of two alternating stitch patterns, one them garter, the other the Purl Twist stitch.
Materials
Size US 7/4.5mm circular needle, at least 36 inches long
K – Knit                                  P – Purl
RS – Right Side                     WS – Wrong Side
YO – Yarn Over
PM – Place Marker    SM – Slip Marker
St(s) – Stitch(es)
Sl1 wyif – Slip 1 with yarn in front
LRinc – Lifted Right Increase. Using your right needle, lift the right leg of the stitch below the next stitch on the left-hand needle onto the left-hand needle and knit it. 1 stitch increased.
LLinc – Lifted Left Increase. Using your left needle, lift the left leg of the stitch 2 rows below the stitch on right-hand needle onto left-hand needle and knit it through the back loop. 1 stitch increased.
PT – Purl Twist. Purl 2 stitches together, but don’t remove stitches from left needle. Purl the first stitch again, then slip both stitches off needle.
Row 1 (RS): K2, YO, K to marker, LLinc, SM, K1, SM, LRinc, K to last 2 sts, YO, K2.
Row 2 (WS): K to marker, SM, SL1 wyif, SM, K to end.
Purl Twist Sections
Row 1 (RS): K2, YO, K to marker, LLinc, SM, K1, SM, LRinc, K to last 2 sts, YO, K2.
Row 2 (WS): K3, PT to 1 st before marker, K1, SM, Sl1 wyif, SM, K1, PT to last 3 sts, K3.
Instructions
Using your favorite garter tab cast-on method, cast on a two-stitch wide garter tab with 9 total stitches. My favorite garter tab that uses short rows instead of picking up stitches to create the tab is here. This is the method I use for starting all top-down triangular or crescent shaped shawls.
Setup Row (WS): K4, PM, P1, PM, K4.
Now alternate Garter Sections and Purl Twist Sections however you like. Sample was done as follows:
Garter Section until you have 81 stitches, ending with a WS row.
Purl Twist Section: 10 times.
Garter Section: 5 times.
Purl Twist Section: 9 times.
Garter Section: 5 times.
Purl Twist Section: 8 times.
Garter Section: 5 times.
Purl Twist Section: 7 times.
Garter Section: 5 times.
Purl Twist Section: 6 times.
Garter Section: 2 times.
That’s it! I’m the only one to test this pattern, so if you find any mistakes or have any questions, please feel free to comment or send me a message.
If you prefer a .pdf of the pattern, you can download it here: Pave the Way
As far as that other idea I had floating around my head, it will have to wait until another time. In the meantime, I hope you enjoy Pave the Way and have a beautiful weekend.
Purl across with Contrasting Color, anchoring Main Color in stitches as shown above.
Knit with Main Color while holding Contrasting Color in front of work as shown above.
Knit with Main Color while holding Contrasting Color in back of work as shown above.
