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I started this shawl about a year ago, then gave up on it. I couldn’t get it to look the way I wanted, so it needed a time-out. A year time-out apparently.
Well, I picked it out of the discard pile recently and got back to work. And I’m pretty happy with the result.
While working on it, I waited for a name to come to me. Then the Universe provided a name by dumping a ridiculously large amount of snow on the Seattle area. Eira is a female name in Wales and means “snow” in the Welsh language.
Eira shawl incorporates the super-cool reversible 2-color Stanton Brioche stitch created by Nancy Marchant in her Knitting Brioche book. I love this book, and highly recommend being comfortable with regular Brioche before attempting a modified version of the stitch.
The Stanton Brioche stitch is a combination of purls and slipped stitches with the contrasting color; and a combination of slipped stitches and Brioche knit stitches with the main color. The slipped stitches create a slipped stitch that is surrounded by TWO yarn-overs, while the Brioche knit stitches knit together the stitch with its TWO yarn-overs. I think it creates a more lacy look than regular Brioche.
If you’re familiar with regular Brioche, the Stanton stitch won’t be a problem.
I started the shawl with a triangle made from placing yarn-overs at the beginning of each row. The top of the triangle is bound off and the yarn-overs are then picked up and knit to create the rest of the shawl.
I’m currently finalizing the pattern and plan to have it uploaded to Ravelry soon. If anyone is interested in test-knitting it, please let me know!
The snow is finally starting to melt here in the Seattle area. I hope it’s done for the year. Who else is ready for Spring and farmers markets and road-trips to the ocean?
One day last week, I was browsing the yarn section at Ben Franklin. My daughter, G, approached me with an armful of bright green and yellow acrylic yarn and asked me to knit her a sweater. I replied with “Who are you, and what have you done with my daughter?”
Knitting for Kids
I think many of us begin knitting because we want to make cute, one-of-a-kind, handmade items for our babies. Adorable booties. Endearing little baby sweaters.
I began knitting long beyond the kids’ baby stages, but I still enjoy creating hand knit items for them. Especially for my tween daughter. The problem is that she doesn’t appreciate wearing these items quite as much as I enjoy making them for her.
I’ve knitted several items for G, like this top and this sweater, only to have them end up at the bottom of the dresser drawer or passed on to a cousin. And forget about having her try them on during the production process. It’s like trying to squeeze a pissed-off cat into a pair of Barbie pants.
Which is why I about fell over from shock when she asked me to knit for her.
The yarn is Cherub Aran by Cascade Yarns, a soft and squishy blend of nylon and acrylic. The bright neon colors made me wonder if G was trolling me into making an ugly sweater. However, it turns out that she wanted to assume the image of the character Chara from the video game “Undertale.” Yeah, I’d never heard of it either. At any rate, it should make a great cosplay for next year’s ComicCon.
After obtaining the details from my daughter and the internet (wide yellow stripe, set-in-sleeves, rounded neck, etc.) I pondered my construction method. I knew I wanted to knit it top-down.
My first attempt involved Barbara Walker’s top-down simultaneous set-in sleeve method. It was a disaster. (It was me, not the method.) I frogged it. I tried Susie Myers’ Contiguous Sleeve Method next. This worked out much better. I loosely followed Isabell Kraemer’s Driftwood pattern (without the button placket), for sizing and construction.
Knitting something that kids want
I finished the Chara sweater. G loves it. Now I have a plan to follow when I want to make another item for her.
Let her pick out the project.
I would never have made this sweater. Or picked out this yarn. This was all G’s idea.
2. Let her pick out the yarn.
Even if it’s neon and bulky and acrylic and not the natural-colored sock weight wool I usually like to work with. Come to think of it, I suppose I should be thankful that she didn’t pick out a sock weight wool for this project.
3. Let her be involved in the design process.
G gave me all the details on how she wanted it from the sleeve type (set-in) to where exactly the stripe goes. At one point I had to frog back because the stripe was too low.
4. Make it fun.
This wasn’t just any old sweater. And G actually enjoyed trying this on as I was knitting it.
Despite not being something I would normally make, I had fun with this project. The yarn was nice to work with. The pattern was easy to follow. The colors almost burned my eyes out. But G will actually wear this. And the big grin on her face as she helped with it made it all worth it.
I can’t promise I won’t design anything else for her that she has no desire to wear.
At which point, I’ll be back trying to squeeze the aforementioned cat into the tiny doll clothes.
This is more of a tutorial than a pattern. I’ll give instructions on how I created it, but feel free to make any and all modifications.
The schematic shows how the tank is constructed. (And please feel free to admire my amazing MS Paint skills.) Note that the triangles labeled A and C on the sides are actually full squares that wrap around to the other side. Squares labeled A are worked first, separately. B squares are worked next by picking up stitches from the A squares to connect them together. C squares are worked after that by picking up stitches from the B squares. Triangles labeled D and E are completed next. Finally two full squares with straps (F) are added.
Cotton or bamboo or linen yarn in a Dk or sport weight. The sample was made with Bamboo Pop by Universal Yarn, which is a DK weight of 50% cotton and 50% bamboo. I used approximately 550 yards, but didn’t keep track of how much of that was main color vs. contrasting color. I suggest knitting a square, calculating the yardage of that one square, and multiplying it by the number of squares you’re going to make. (17-ish if you’re following the schematic). Add some for the straps and edging, and you can get a decent approximate yardage needed.
Needles, size appropriate for yarn used, or maybe slightly larger for a nice drape. I used a size 5 for the main parts, and a size 4 for the edgings.
Tapestry needle for weaving ends.
K – Knit
P – Purl
St(s) – Stitches
CDD – Center Double Decrease
Sl wyif- Slip with yarn in front
RS – Right side
WS – Wrong side
SSP – Slip, slip, purl
Before starting, let’s figure out sizing and some math. For sizing, measure around the bust and decide on ease. I recommend zero ease or even a slight negative one, because I tried a couple of inches of positive ease at first, and it could have fit a couple of elephants instead of my young daughter. So, the circumference will be bust size in inches plus whatever ease (or not) you want to add (or subtract). Once you know the circumference of the top, divide it by 4. That will be the length of x in the square picture. Also, knit a swatch and calculate gauge (sts/inch).
The chest circumference for the sample was 27 inches, so each x equals 27/4 or 6.75 inches.
Because you know the length of x, you can calculate the length of “a” using the Pythagorean theorem since the square forms right angles (more or less). This will be the length of one side.
Because the sample had an x length of 6.75 inches, the length of “a” equals 4.77 inches.
Now that you know the length of one side, you can calculate how many stitches are cast on for one side using your gauge:
a * (sts/in) = stitches per side.
My gauge was 5.5 stitches per inch, so I needed to cast on 26 stiches for each side of a square.
Let’s set stitches per side equal to z. (So, my z = 26 stitches.)
Row A Squares
These are the only squares that will be worked separately. Cast on (2z) +1 sts. (For my sample, I cast on a total of 53 sts, 26 for each side, plus the center stitch.) Turn.
Setup: Knit z sts, sl1 wyif, K to last st, P1.
Row 1 (RS): Slip1 knitwise, knit to middle 3 sts, CDD (Slip 2 sts together knitwise, K1, Pass slipped sts over.) K to last stitch, P1.
Row 2(WS): Sl1 knitwise, K to center st, Sl1 wyif, K to last st, P.
Knit these two rows for awhile until you decide you want to add a new color. On a right side row, work with the current color until you get to the last st, then purl that with your new color. Continue Rows 1 and 2 with new color until you feel like switching it back. I highly recommend attaching/weaving in color changes while you’re knitting to avoid weaving in a bazillion ends later.
When you have 5 sts left after working a WS row, on the RS, Sl1 knitwise, CCD, P1. (3 sts remain). WS: Sl1 knitwise, Sl1 wyif, P1. RS: CCD. Cut yarn leaving a long tail, and pull through from the back to the front of the st. This st will be used later, so just leave the tail through it for now to prevent unraveling.
Work 3 more squares the same way.
Row B Squares
The second row of squares will connect the first squares together.
With RS of a Row 1 Square facing you and starting at top, pick up z sts in slipped sts along top left edge. (Do NOT use the live st at the very top of the square.) Pick up a st in one strand of knot at bottom of square and one strand of knot in another Row 1 Square. This is kind of awkward, but I found using a crochet hook made it a bit easier. Now, pick up z sts along the slipped sts on the right side of the other Row 1 Square. Again, do NOT use the live st at the top of the square.
Setup (WS): Knit to center st, Sl1 wyif, K to last st, P1.
Work Rows 1 and 2 from Row A Squares, changing colors as desired. Complete 3 more squares in a similar way connecting all the Row 1 Squares. (Tank will not be flat anymore after all Row A squares are connected to Row B squares.)
Row C Squares
Row C Squares are worked very similarly to Row B Squares. Pick up sts the same way (leaving the top live sts of B squares alone for now) with the following exception: When you get to the bottom corner of the square, pick up that live st from the top of the Row A Square and place it on your right needle. Pull the tail end out of the st to weave it in later. Do this for all 4 Row C Squares.
Knitting the Bottom Partial Squares (D)
Turn work upside down. You will be picking up sts from the cast-on edge of the Row A Squares to fill in those triangles, using the following method:
On left edge of upside-down square, pick up z sts, pick up 1 st from bottom center st of Row B Square, then pick up z sts from right side of next Row A Square. Turn.
Setup (WS): K to center st, Sl1 wyif, K to last 2 sts, SSP. (Slip slip purl: slip 2 sts knitwise separately, pass them back to left needle. Purl together through the back loop.)
Row 1(RS): Sl1 knitwise, K to center 3 sts, CCD, K to last 2 sts, SSP.
Row 2 (WS): Sl1 knitwise, K to center st, Sl1 wyif, K to last 2 sts, SSP.
Change colors (or not) as you did with previous squares.
Work rows 1 and 2 until you have a single stitch left, the cut and weave in. (I ended up with 4 sts, so I did a CDD, except I K2tog before passing my slipped sts over.)
Knitting the Back Triangles (E)
The two triangles at the back top are worked by picking up stitches along the slipped edges of the Row 3 Squares (including the live st at the top of the Row B Squares). You can also include the live stitches at the top of the C Squares in your picked up stitches. Decreases are done the same way as the bottom triangles. Work this way (including color changes) until you have desired number of live sts left for the strap, ending with a RS row. (My strap was 13 sts wide, not including edging.) Cut a long tail, and place live sts on a holder.
Front top Squares and Straps (F)
Pick up sts along the edges along Row C Squares as previous (again, including the live stitches at the tops of Row C Squares if available) and work until you have the same number of live sts left that you have on the back triangles. Now, continue to work back and forth on the straps without decreasing, but slipping the center st on each WS row. Work straps until desired length, ending with a WS row. Place all live sts on needles and Garter Kichener stitch the live sts on the strap to the live sts on the back triangles. (Here is a video on grafting garter stitch.)
For the edging, pick up sts in the slipped sts at bottom, armholes and neckline. Work garter st (or other desired edging) around. You can add some short rows to raise the neckline or armholes if desired. For the sample, I added a few sets at the front of the neckline using simple wrap and turns. Bind off loosely and weave in ends. Block as desired.